2Fit for a Harvard grad who never really grew out of his pullovers, cardigans and glee club blazers, Brioni’s fall winter collection was geared toward the American golden boy, whose closest interaction with bespoke is Italian ready-to-wear.

Brioni said Designer Brendan Mullane was in pursuit of Spanish equestrian culture and the Art Deco and Bauhaus movements. But it was 21clear the house was in pursuit of customers — with the US as one of its top single markets in terms of sales. Not surprisingly, the top American buyers in the front row were snapping shots with their iPhones the whole show through.

Kering’s Francois-Henri Pinault was flanked by American actor James Marsden and British hearthrob Max Irons, in celebration of the Roman house’s 70th anniversary and its return to the catwalk.

In the dimly lit, carpeted courtyard of Milan’s Castello Sforzesco, the low hum of classical music was heard. In the ominous medieval setting it almost felt like a duel would soon ensue.